There’s something unmistakably comforting about a plate of warm vellayappam or puttu, gently soaked in the creamy gravy of a Karimeen Mappas. For many in Kerala, especially in Christian households along the backwaters, this isn’t just food – it’s the kind of breakfast that feels like a quiet celebration. No spices screaming for attention, no bold colors. Just subtlety, warmth, and that unmistakable taste of home.
Mappas isn’t a fiery curry. It’s soft-spoken, made with coconut milk and a light blend of spices, cooked slowly until the flavors settle into each other. The star of it – karimeen, or pearl spot – soaks in that gravy beautifully. It holds its shape but flakes off at the touch of a spoon. The gravy itself is silky, slightly tangy, and full of the aroma of curry leaves, coconut oil, and the sweetness of slow-cooked shallots. It’s the kind of dish that doesn’t rush you – you eat it slowly, mop up every drop, and always go back for one more appam.
Growing up, mappas was a dish that always meant Sunday mornings or special guests. Not too spicy for breakfast, but rich enough to feel special. I remember my grandmother making it for Christmas mornings – soft appams stacked on a plate, karimeen gently layered in a clay pot, and the dining table full of that creamy, coastal fragrance.
What makes mappas unique is its place in Kerala’s Syrian Christian food tradition. While the rest of Kerala leaned towards tamarind/ Cambogia -rich fish curries or red chili-heavy gravies, the Christian kitchens evolved a style that used coconut milk generously, and preferred subtlety over heat. Mappas is part of that legacy – alongside stew, ishtu, and fish molee. The technique is slow, the flavours are balanced, and there’s a certain elegance in how everything comes together without trying too hard.
Though it’s most commonly served for breakfast with appam, dosa, or puttu, it fits beautifully into a lunch plate too – especially with soft white rice or even chappathi. The best part? It tastes even better after a few hours, when the fish has settled into the gravy – as if it’s found its place.
Even now, whenever I see fresh karimeen in the market, I think not of fiery fry or pollichathu first – I think of mappas. Of quiet mornings, coconut milk gently simmering, and the soft hush of a curry that says everything without saying much at all.
Kerala Karimeen Mappas
Ingredients
Instructions
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Clean the fish thoroughly and make vertical cuts on both sides to help the masala seep in.
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Prepare the marination paste by mixing 1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder, 1 teaspoon chili powder, 1 teaspoon black pepper powder, enough salt, and 1 tablespoon lemon juice with a little water.
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Apply the masala paste all over the fish and keep it aside.
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Fry the fish until about 70% done. The remaining cooking will happen in the curry. Set it aside.
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Grind shallots, garlic, ginger, 1/4 teaspoon turmeric powder, 1 teaspoon chili powder, and 1 teaspoon coriander powder with a little water to a smooth paste.
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Heat some fresh oil or reuse the oil from frying the fish.
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Add 1 large sliced onion and sauté it for a while.
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Add slit green chilies and a sprig of curry leaves. Sauté everything together.
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When the onion becomes soft and translucent, add chopped tomatoes and cook well.
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Add the ground masala paste and enough salt to the pan.
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Cook the mixture until it thickens slightly and the raw smell disappears.
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Pour in the thin coconut milk (Randaam Pal) and let it come to a boil.
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Once it starts boiling, gently place the fried fish into the curry. Do not stir with a spoon—just swirl the pan gently to mix.
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Cover the pan with a lid and let the fish cook in the curry for a few more minutes.
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Just before removing from the heat, add thick coconut milk (Onnam Pal) and mix gently by swirling.
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Finish the curry by drizzling a little coconut oil over the top.
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Karimeen Mappas is ready. Serve it hot with Appam, Puttu, or Dosa.